Page," which is sent to all Pool Doctor customers.
Questions 4 - 15 Chemicals
Questions 16 - 18 Stains
Questions 19 - 24 Leaks & water level
Questions 25 - 31 Pumps & motors
Questions 32 - 35 Filters & circulation
Questions 36 - 40 Heaters
Questions 42 - 44 Automatic pool sweeps
Question 45 Acid wash
Question 46 Deck-O-Seal
Questions 47 - 52 Pool service
Questions 53 General
Some years ago I wrote a paper called "Clear water revival," it may help you understand the basics.
Your swimming pool and you. Understanding the basics.
Responding to the initial signal from your brain, your eyelids spring open to greet another day. You suck in the early morning air and for
the first time today you are consciously aware of the burst of oxygen filling your lungs. Deep in your chest your heart thumps a
consistent beat, pumping blood like clockwork through the complicated network of veins. Thousands of alveoli sacs travel through your
bloodstream, transporting oxygen to the muscle groups so eagerly demanding it. Your blood, flowing through your veins like some
powerfully contained geyser, forces its way into your kidneys. Miraculously the kidneys purify and cleanse the blood sending the
impurities to waste, then like some free flowing river, return it back into the complicated mass of tributaries for further distribution. This
process is repeated some twenty times an hour, filtering approximately one thousand pints of blood a day. You stand up stretching
effortlessly, while beneath the surface this remarkable system maintains a wonderful world of equilibrium.
Okay I admit, this may not be the way a physician would explain the human blood treatment plant, but at least it gives you an idea of a
truly remarkable system at work. Within our bodies there are hundreds of other procedures occurring simultaneously that, not only do
we take for granted, but they allow us to live, breathe and if we so choose, partake in a healthy existence.
Well what does this have to do with my swimming pool? You may ask. Believe it or not, the system I just described is very much like the
mechanics of your swimming pool. For us to enjoy the benefits that our pool has to offer, it needs to be kept clean, healthy and free of
bacteria. Just like ours, this body has equipment that completes similar functions, eliminating bacteria from the water in a most
efficient manner. The water (blood) is pumped from the pool via the plumbing (veins) with a pump and motor (heart), and forced
through the filter (kidney) then returned back to the pool. Simple enough? Not quite...Let me explain.
Powered by electricity, the brains that run our swimming pools can be as simple as a basic time clock mechanism, or as sophisticated
as a computerized controller executing lists of preprogrammed functions. But no matter how complicated or simple this device may be
its main purpose is to set the entire process in motion.
Once activated, the circulating pump and motor sucks the water through piping that varies in diameter from 1.5 inches-older pools are
sometimes less-to 8 inches from different areas of the swimming pool. Like the propeller of an airplane, the pump impeller spins
rapidly forcing water through the plumbing and directional valves into the filter. Pumps are graded low, medium or high head, high head
being the most powerful. Motors are graded by horsepower, from 1/2 HP through 8 HP or even higher in more extreme circumstances.
However, average swimming pool circulation motors are sized around 1 to 2 horsepower.
The next component in this airtight pressurized system is the pool filter. Pressure can be read from a gauge on top of the filter in
pounds per square inch or PSI, which will gradually rise when the filter becomes dirty, slowing down the flow of water. Unlike the
human kidney, different types of filters are available. Sand, cartridge and diatomaceous earth filters are the most common. They are all
graded in efficiency by the amount of microns of bacteria they are able to filter out.
In line, directly following the filter, you may find a number of other components such as directional valves, a heater, solar equipment,
automatic pool sweep equipment and water purifiers. At this point in the system the water is considered filtered, and travels back to the
pool through a number of return lines gaining the maximum flow while purposely eliminating areas of stagnant water.
Our human body uses food as a fuel by stripping it of its nutrients, calories and vitamins. These in turn supply us with power, growth,
strength and ultimately our health. And so goes our swimming pool. Although its power is supplied by means of voltage, the water still
needs to be treated so as to maintain its healthy makeup. In order for the filter to remove foreign particles, sanitizing agents-such as
chlorine or bromine-act very much like our immune system by fighting and killing the bacteria in the water. Automatic chlorinators are
plumbed into the system just before the water returns to the pool. These can be either liquid or dry tablet style chlorinators. Liquid
chlorinators work on a separate pump by injecting chlorine into the returning filtered water, where dry tablet style chlorinators use
filtered water inside a towered container, utilizing the flow of water to dissolve the chlorine tablets. In both instances, very much like our
oxygen carrying alveoli sacs, the chlorine is transported back to the pool in diluted form providing extra swimmer comfort.
Maintaining the correct chemical balance for your pool water while ensuring its proper filtration schedule, is just as important as
maintaining a proper diet of food and exercise for your own body. When the time comes and you are ready to analyze your pool
equipment, just as in life you are free to choose the efficiency of your system. Remember that your swimming pool is an expensive
investment, so when building a pool or improving an existing one, choose your equipment wisely. The biggest advantage you have with
your swimming pool equipment is that you are able to change the components as they age. In life we are not afforded such luxury.
So what will you decide? Would you prefer the body and system of a well-trained, well-balanced triathlete? Or, will you settle for the
slow, heavy sluggish system of a couch potato? Be fair warned though, if you choose the latter you could be heading for a complete
system failure and could well become a candidate for clear water revival
2. How long does it take to build a pool and how is it done?
The average pool will take about 7 to 8 weeks from start to completion, done in the following manner.
Week 1 - LAYOUT: Large wooden spikes are driven into the ground to outlying the shape and size of the pool.
EXCAVATION: A tractor is used to dig the hole for the pool. The size of the tractor depends on the accessibility of your yard.
Week 2 - PLUMBING: The piping, usually 1.5 - 2 inches in diameter is installed, along with the skimmer device, drains and anything
necessary for proper water circulation.
REINFORCING STEEL: Steel bars are installed in a grid pattern along the entire pool surface. The steel support structure provides the
added strength needed for concrete pools - At this point the pool has to be inspected for steel and bond.
Week 3 - GUNITE INSTALLATION: Gunite is the method of pumping dry sand and cement through a hose and adding water at the
discharge nozzle. Using this method the cement is sprayed onto the reinforced steel, then trimmed and shaped to the contours of the
pool. The surface must then be sprayed with a mist of water several times a day for 7-10 days.
ELECTRICAL: A licensed electrical contractor installs all electrical equipment, including underwater lights - At this point the electrical
inspection is done.
Week 4 - TILE: Ceramic tile is set along the water line to make it easier to maintain. Coping, the tile along the perimeter of the pool is
also set.
Week 5 - DECKING & LANDSCAPING: The concrete base of the decking is installed and can remain concrete or is covered with stone
or brick. Fences and decorative landscaping can be added at this time. A pre-plaster inspection is done at this point.
Week 6 - INTERIOR FINISH: Plastering is the final step, providing a smooth water-tight surface for your pool. White is the typical color
for plaster but gray, black and brown are also available. Exposed aggregate, fine pebbles mixed with cement, is the latest pool surface.
The pebbles produce a natural rock finish and come in a variety of colors.
Week 7 - FILL POOL WITH WATER: If plaster is used to finish your pool, it will be filled with water immediately. If exposed aggregate is
used then your pool will be filled the next day. Filling the pool can take from 24 to 48 hours. A final inspection is done to complete.
3. What are our options when we resurface our pool?
Many different surfaces are now available, in a variety of different colors and textures.
Plaster is the most common surface and if taken care of can last for many years. Plaster comes in different colors and shades; it is up
to you to decide what will look best in your backyard.
Aggregate surfaces like Pebbletech-millions of small stones seemingly glued together. This surface comes in many different colors,
shades and textures. I have even seen aggregate with rhinestone inserted, which makes for wonderful light effects at night.
Interglass is another surface, which is a cross between fiberglass and plaster. This unfortunately only comes in one color (white) and
one texture (smooth). Many companies put a high warranty on this surface but always make sure that they have been around for a long
time. See PS 2000.
Vinyl liners and fiberglass shells are other surfaces that can be custom made to fit your application.
4. I know that my test kit says so many ppm, but what is ppm?
Parts per million (ppm) is a unit of measure used when checking pool chemicals. The New Jersey Water Association compared one
part per million as: 1 inch in 16 miles or 1 minute in 2 years, or 1 cent in $10,000.
5. What are the correct levels I should be looking for in my pool chemicals?
Balanced water has a pH level of 7.4 and 7.6. A total alkalinity range of about 80-120 ppm. Chlorine in the range of 1.0-3.0ppm.
If your pH, your total alkalinity and your calcium hardness is too low, metal corrosion and staining of the pool plaster can occur. If your
pH, your total alkalinity and your calcium hardness is too high, scaling, cloudy water and discolored plaster can occur.
You should check your pool chemicals at least once a week, and adjust accordingly. That is why it is always best to leave your pool
chemistry to a professional.
6. Is the effectiveness of chlorine dependant on the pool water pH.
Yes. The ideal pH range for a chlorine treated pool is 7.4 - 7.6. Higher pH decreases chlorine's killing ability, which is why pools at a
higher pH have more difficulty with algae and bacteria. High pH also promotes scaling. Water with a pH below 7.2 turns aggressive-it
can corrode plaster and metals, cause stains and irritate eyes and skin.
7. What is conditioner? Why do we need it in our pool and why do we pay extra for it?
Pool conditioner or stabilizer or cyanuric acid, is a sun screening chemical that when used properly is a very effective control of chlorine.
It reduces the loss of chlorine due to evaporation by the sun. If no conditioner is present in your pool water, your chlorine disappears
very quickly.
You pay extra for it because we do and we pass on that cost to you. Conditioner is applied when needed year round, but we only charge
a small fee for it in the spring. And we only charge for whatever we add at that time. If more is needed during the year, we do not charge
for it.
8. Is chlorine dangerous?
The following is taken from the July 23 issue of the San Diego Union entitled ‘Pooling the risk,’
by Neal Matthews.
Chlorine is the 17th element on the Periodic Table, chlorine was identified by Sir Humphry Davy in 1810. The name derives from the
Greek word chloros, meaning “greenish yellow.”
Pool chlorine does not occur naturally, but in combination with dissolved salts is common in seawater, where it is the fourth most
abundant element. As a gas, chlorine is poisonous and extremely dangerous. Inhaling only 30 parts per million produces immediate
chest pain and vomiting. 50 ppm causes lung injury. A few deep breaths at 1,000 ppm causes death.
Chlorine’s toxicity makes it an excellent liquid disinfectant, killing bacteria and clarifying water. The chlorine level common in U.S. public
pools is 3ppm.
9. My neighbor’s pool service company uses mostly dry chemicals. Apart from the obvious, what are the differences between dry and
liquid chemicals?
Nearly every pool chemical comes in both dry and liquid form. Usually dry chemicals are much more concentrated where liquid
chemicals are more diluted. For example; A chlorine tablet is about 99% active chlorine which also contains conditioner. Liquid
chlorine is about 16% active. Liquid is faster acting and results are immediate. Tablets are slow acting as they take much longer to
dissolve.
We don’t think that it is a good idea to maintain a pool purely on dry chemicals alone, and likewise it is not good practice to maintain a
pool on liquid chemicals alone. The Pool Doctor uses all types of liquid and dry chemicals to keep your pool sanitized and chemically
balanced in the fastest and safest way possible. The only form of chlorine that we do not use is chlorine gas. Although gas is very
concentrated and fast acting, we feel that it is dangerous for animals, plants and children.
10. After you have applied the chemicals, how long do we have to wait before we can swim?
About one hour if the chemicals are sanitizing agents applied directly to the pool. However, if they are applied through chlorinator
equipment you can swim immediately.
If we ever treat your pool with specialized treatments, or shock your pool, we leave door hangers if it is unsafe to swim.
11. What is a chlorinator?
A chlorinator is a unit that is usually installed on your pool equipment that contains chlorine.
There are dry chlorinators that contain chlorine tablets and there are liquid chlorinators that inject liquid chlorine into the pool - these
are used mainly on commercial pools.
The dry chlorinator allows water to pass through the system and the flowing water dissolves the chlorine tablet, allowing the chlorine to
flow into the pool in a diluted form.
This is a much better way of adding chemicals rather than pouring the solution directly into the pool.
12. Can we drink our pool water and will it harm our dog?
Pool water is not meant for drinking either by your or your pet. It can make you both sick, especially just after we adjusted the chemicals.
13. Why shower before and after swimming?
It is always a good idea to shower before and after you enter your pool or spa.
Before entering the water, a shower washes off most of the body contaminates such as lotions and perspiration etc. This keeps the
water healthier, allowing your filter to work more efficiently. You would be surprised how much bacteria the human body can introduce
to the water, even though we feel clean.
Upon leaving the water, it is a good idea to shower again, so as to wash off all the chemicals that would normally dry on your body,
especially the hair. Chlorine and bromine can damage normally healthy hair if it is not washed out.
14. I can see like a fine oil slick on top of my pool water. What is this?
Probably body and sun tan oils, which can clog up the pores on your filter. Always put lotion on after you swim and shower before
entering the water.
15. What’s that yellow stuff floating on my pool and stuck all over my pool tiles?
Springtime is when pollen and other fine particles take to the air. Many people get it confused with algae. Pollen is very fine and
powdery, and for about 4 weeks you notice it on the surface of the water, where it sticks to the tile line.
We cannot do anything about this until it disappears. Pollen is harmless so you can still swim if you so wish. Your filter will take most of
the particles out of the water.
16. What causes the different colored stains on my plaster?
Minerals and other substances find their way into every pool. Iron, calcium and copper exist naturally in source water, and can be
prevalent in well water.
While other materials can stain plaster and vinyl just as easily - sources include organic matter such as leaves, and excessive oxidizer
- dissolved minerals remain one of the most common staining culprits.
In an ideal world, pools would never suffer from stains because their perfect water balance would hold metals in solution all the time.
In reality, though, pH and alkalinity can drift and calcium levels can climb, leading minerals to fall out of solution, or precipitate, and
stain.
The key is maintaining a good chemical balance to avoid the ups and downs, but sometimes change is impossible to avoid. To
combat this problem, we try to keep chemicals balanced at all times but in between our service calls, change can occur. In this case
we use sequestering agents, which hold metal ions in solution so they do not precipitate and form stains and deposits on walls and
floors. We also use chelating agents which use an electrical bond between the agent and the metal ions. This holds it in a form that
can now be more readily filtered out. This is part of your service with us.
The following is a list of minerals and the color of their stain:
Calcium - usually white crystals adhering to the pool plaster.
Cobalt - fiberglass shells - red, blue, gray and black.
Copper - Blue, green, black, teal and dark red.
Iron - Dark red, brown, black, gray and green.
Manganese - Pink, red and black.
Many of these stains can be removed with acid washing the pool plaster. Success really depends on how deep the stain goes into the
plaster, as acid washing removes a small amount of plaster. See acid washing.
17. I have lots of little rust stains around the return lines of my pool. What causes this?
This is usually an indication of a deteriorating heater. Time and chemicals and wear and tear can break down a heater quite easily. The
water is always traveling through the heater and the heat exchanger where corrosion can easily occur.
Larger rust stains can be rebar showing through the plaster. These are the steel strengthening rods under the plaster, in the concrete
and gunite. This just means that your plaster is very thin and you may be in need of a replaster.
18. How do you control algae?
With water temperatures on the rise and pool usage increasing, algae will sometimes show its ugly face.
Algae and bacteria enter the water on many different vessels. Your dogs are a big bacteria carrier, so try to keep them out of the water.
Algae is a plant. Our chemicals will kill the algae, and our brushing will dissolve it into the water, but it takes time for your filter to filter it
out.
Make sure that your time clock remains on for at least 8 - 10 hours a day (that’s on pools with good equipment), preferably when the
sun is shining, so that the water does not get stagnant.
In between our calls, try to keep your pool free of debris and materials. Take children’s toys out of the water when they have finished
playing in the pool.
19. I seem to be putting water in my pool every day. How do I know if I have a leak?
This question usually is asked in the hot season due to summer heat and high evaporation.
If you do not have any visible water leaks on your pool you can check water level by using the ‘bucket test.’
You simply stand a bucket on the top step of your pool, filling it to exactly the same level inside as the pool water level on the outside.
Mark both the inner level and outer level with a pen (magic marker). Check in 24 hours to see if both levels have dropped equally.
Obviously the bucket should not leak so you can judge the difference. In the summer you can lose up to an inch per day if your pool is
constantly in the sun. A pool cover will help cut back on evaporation by about 75%, but remember the cover has to be left off at least 2
days per week, or your pool will get the greenhouse effect and algae will bloom.
If you have determined that you do indeed have a leak, check for visible leaks around the pool equipment first. Then check to see if your
backwash valve is not slightly ajar leaking the water down the drain. If you cannot locate the leak you need a reliable leak detection
company. Check at the bottom of our Repairs Page.
20. How do I know when I have a leak?
A leak can happen three ways on a swimming pool. A visible water leak where you actually see the water dripping or leaking, a leak that
sucks in air, or the unseen, unknown underground leak from the plumbing or pool shell.
It is fairly simple to recognize a visible water leak; you usually see the water dripping. But most people do not immediately see where
the water is coming from. This is best determined by turning off the pool equipment, allowing the equipment area to dry out then turning
it back on to look for beads of water or drips.
Air leaks happen when nipples are loose or pipes are cracked on the suction side of the pump (before the basket). They can be located
on any line from the skimmer/main drain to the pump. This type of leak can be detected by looking for air inside the pump pot-where the
pump basket is located. An air leak can cause all sorts of problems especially if it is on a cracked line under the ground, which would
turn into a water leak when the pool pump is off. A more common location for an air leak is valves prior to the pump, nipples, or a
leaking o-ring on the lid of the pump. The only way to fix these is to replumb the pump or the plumbing in that particular area and to
change the relevant o-rings and gaskets. If an air leak remains unrepaired it can deteriorate to a point where the pump will not prime,
which could quite easily burnout the motor.
For underground leaks it is always best to bring in a leak detection company who can pin point the leak with special equipment. Check
at the bottom of our Repairs Page.
21. How often should I drain my pool and when will I know when to do it?
Every 5 years is a good rule to live by, but don’t forget that when water evaporates you are filling the pool with more fresh. A good judge
would be if you cannot manipulate the chemicals any more, then is the time to drain. The San Diego water supply is very hard and
when the total dissolved solids gets too high, it is time to drain. We advise accordingly.
22. At what level should the water be maintained in our pools?
Pool water level is very important and often overlooked by pool owners. It is best to have the pool water half way up the skimmer
opening. This way it allows the skimmer to operate the way it should do, causing a whirlpool effect to pull floating debris into the
skimmer basket. The weir (flap) in the skimmer keeps the debris from floating back out into the pool area when the system turns off. If
you have the water level too high, which happens quite a lot during the rainy season, the skimmer is rendered useless and debris either
floats on the surface or sinks to the bottom.
During the fall and winter season, it is also important to empty skimmer baskets a couple of times weekly, so that the pump gets
enough water to remain primed. This is something that we regularly do as part of your maintenance.
23. I overfilled my pool, how can I drain it off?
If you have a hose bib attachment on the pool equipment connect up a hose, open the faucet and turn on the pump. You could drain off
excess water by backwashing the filter. Or, you could submerge one end of a garden hose, unroll it and put the other end at a lower
point, suck the water through and let it flow. Remember though, water is expensive and evaporation is fast during the warmer months.
24. Why is it the responsibility of the pool owner to add water and not the service company?
Very simply stated, it is a liability issue. If we were to fill your pool and accidentally leave the water running, flooding out your neighbor’s
backyard or home, we would be liable. Also, when servicing a pool, it is hard to see the bottom of the pool while water is filling because
of the light reflection on the moving water. In addition to all of these reasons, we just do not have the time to wait for your pool to fill.
25. Can you explain how a pump works?
Swimming pool pumps consist mostly of the same basic parts: the pump pot (where the basket is contained), vacuum chamber or
volute, the impeller and the shaft seal. The water enters the pump pot, which keeps a reservoir pooled to allow the pump to prime itself.
All of the water that passes through the pump must first pass through the pump basket. This collects any debris that has been sucked
up preventing it from passing through and clogging the pump impeller.
The action of the pump takes place in the vacuum chamber; this houses the impeller that moves the water. The impeller attaches to the
motor shaft and spins inside the vacuum chamber. The impeller will either be open faced, which are bronze with the visible vanes, or a
closed-faced impeller, which are plastic and have a cover over the vanes with an opening in the center to allow the water to enter.
Last in line is the seal. The seal has the responsibility to prevent the water from leaking out of the vacuum chamber. A seal must keep
the water in the wet end of the pump so the dry side will stay dry.
Swimming pool pumps use centrifugal force to move water through the circulation system. The definition of centrifugal force is an object
moving away from the center, like a roller coaster.
When water enters the middle eye of the spinning impeller, it is forced out through the impellers vanes. As the water is thrown out to the
edges of the impeller there is a reduction of pressure in the eye of the impeller, and this creates a vacuum which will draw more water
into the impeller.
The water thrown out of the impeller is forced up and out at the top of the vacuum chamber and moves on through the rest of the
circulation system.
26. What causes the pump to lose its prime?
Could be a number of things; Air leak in suction line, water level is below the skimmer, baskets are clogged (skimmer and pump),
suction valve in wrong position, lid of pump is loose or o-ring is damaged, bad gasket or loose connection between pump and pump
housing.
27. How does low pump flow and filter pressure correlate?
If you have low flow and high filter pressure it usually means your filter is dirty or your return line is restricted or blocked. Check all return
valves and make sure the backwash valve is in the correct position.
If you have low flow and low filter pressure, it could mean an air leak or block in the suction line, clogged baskets or clogged impeller.
28. How can the pump get blocked when there is a basket inside?
Most pumps have a basket inside which catches the debris that travels from the pool to the filter. Small debris like sand and silt pass
through to the filter, but large debris like leaves and bugs get caught in the pump basket or trap.
If a basket gets too full or a basket gets torn, larger debris will then travel through the pump pot to the impeller where it can get jammed.
When this happens, the pump has to be broken apart in order to clean out the impeller. This is also the reason that whenever a basket-
skimmer or pump-deteriorates, we change it immediately. Preventative maintenance is the key.
29. I hear a loud pitched screaming from time to time coming from my motor. What is causing this?
The bearings inside your motor are slipping and causing the noise. Unfortunately, your motor is going bad and soon will need to be
replaced. After the bearings start to whine, within a few days they will start to scream loudly much like a chain saw, which will attract your
neighbor. Then you should call us.
30. Why do some pumps make a lot of noise where others are quiet?
Could be a number of reasons...An aging pump usually is louder as the bearings in the motor are getting worn. Newer pumps and
motors are quiet especially the Whisperflo by Pentair.
Also, in some instances a pump can be sized incorrectly. Sometimes the homeowner opts for a larger pump-thinking that bigger is
better-but his system is not equipped for it, as he may only have 1.5 inch plumbing. In this case, the pump will sound loud because the
water cannot travel as fast as the pump requires. The water is then broken down to the point where air is pulled from it and the pump
cavitates, which sounds very loud.
There are three types of pumps; Low, medium and high head. The latter being the more powerful.
31. I heard that SDG&E are giving rebates on energy efficient pumps. Is this true?
Yes, in a nutshell, Sempra Energy will give a $125 cash rebate if you change out your pool pump and motor unit for one listed on their
list of energy efficient units. You have to drop down a 1/2 horsepower though. So if you have a 2HP pump, you can purchase a 1.5HP
pump. We install it for you and you send in the receipt to SDG&E who will rebate you $125.00. The pumps and motors listed are both
energy efficient and more generally more powerful than the older models. Some are high head pumps compared to medium or low
head pumps, which means they move more water-gallons per minute-than the older ones.
32. What is the difference between cartridge, sand and diatomaceous earth (DE) filters?
The efficiency of a pool filter is rated by how many microns or dirt particles it can remove from the water. If the filtration area is
maximized-meaning that you can go longer periods of time between filter cleans-and your system is designed for maximum pumping
power, your pool water will turn over faster and more efficiently. Cartridge filters use a thick paper cartridge to filter bacteria. Sand filters
use sand and DE filters use diatomaceous earth (or a similar product) to filter out or catch the bacteria.
Generally, cartridge filters filter out fewer microns than sand, and DE filters filter out microns than both cartridge and sand filters. When
water chemistry is properly maintained all three filters can give you crystal clear sparkling water, but DE filters will do it more easily.
Cartridge filters have to be broken apart for frequent cleaning, where sand and DE filters can be backwashed. DE filters have to be
recharged after backwashing but sand filters do not. Sand filters need to have the sand changed every few years to maintain their
efficiency, and a DE filter has to be torn down and cleaned at least annually. Backwashing a filter takes out some of the bacteria, but a
lot of it still remains.
In my opinion, and I think that 9 out of 10 pool service technicians will agree with me, DE filters are the best on the market.
33. When do you clean filters?
Generally in the spring time ready for the summer stampede of bacteria. But in some situations, it may be a good idea to clean the filter
again after the summer to clean out the bacteria that has accumulated from the summer past. Although this is not imperative, it is
advisable. By keeping your pool filter in tip top shape, you are extending the life of the elements inside that filter, which again refers to
preventative maintenance.
If your filter pressure is 7-10 PSI higher than its working pressure, we would first backwash it to see if the filter pressure reduces and
remains. If it does then fine, a backwash will do. However, if it continues to rise, the pool filter is dirty and needs to be torn apart and
cleaned.
We always backwash your pool filters regularly as part of your service. This helps to keep the flow at its best, and also keeps the
elements free and clear.
34. My neighbor has his pool filter cleaned like four times a year. Is this necessary and if so why?
It really depends on what type of filter your neighbor has and how well it is being cleaned. A cartridge filter (paper) needs to be cleaned
more often because it cannot handle the bacteria. A DE filter only has to be cleaned once or twice a year if it is done correctly. The filter
is your pools septic tank. It needs to be cleaned on a regular basis.
35. How long should a my system circulate each day?
Many times we arrive to service customers’ pools only to find that the time clock on the pool equipment has had the time reduced
lessening the filtration. This can be a costly mistake especially in the summer months. Filtering time is one of the most important factors
in keeping your pool water clear. Sanitation chemicals kill the water borne bacteria then it is up to the filter to take the bacteria out. In
order to do that the whole body of water has to be sent through the filter. The pump and motor drive the water through the filter.
To calculate filtering time it is best to first find the pool gallonage. In a rectangular pool it is the Length X Width X Average Depth X 7.5.
An oval pool is Long Diameter X Short Diameter X Average Depth X 5.9. A circular pool is Diameter X Diameter X Average Depth X 5.9.
Next we need to find how many gallons per minute your pump and motor will move the water, older pumps are not as efficient as the
more modern ones. This can be checked by a simple water flow meter. Finally, divide the total gallonage by the GPM, which will give
you the total amount of minutes to completely change the water. For example: Let’s suppose your pool is 30,000 gallons and your
pump pumps 35 gallons of water per minute. It will take 14.5 hours for the entire water to pass through the filter.
As a rule of thumb, we like to advise our customers to run their system 4-6 hours daily in the winter, 6-8 hours in the spring, and 8-12
hours in the heat of the summer months.
36. How long is a heater supposed to last?
This depends on the application. If for instance a heater is used on a residential pool and spa, it is rarely used. Sometimes it may be
used for heating the spa and once in a while perhaps the pool. In this instance, the heater can last 10 years or more.
However, if the heater is used on a commercial pool that is heated year round, the life of the heater can be drastically reduced. This is
because of a number of reasons. In the winter months the heater works harder or longer in order to maintain temperature and
condensation can cause corrosion. A commercial pool runs longer so more water passes through the heater. Commercial pool
chemicals have to be stronger and a pool gets shocked more often. All these reasons lead to more wear for the main components of
the commercial heater.
37. Why do rats like to nest in heaters and why do they chew through the wiring?
Rats in heaters are a common problem. They enjoy the warmth usually provided by the pilot light sheltered by the heater shell.
They tend to chew through wiring in order to keep their teeth in shape. The same problem occurs in car engines, especially in areas out
in the country like Rancho Santa Fe and Bonsall.
38. My pool pipes are melting and warping what is causing this?
Every month without fail, I get calls from new customers with leaky equipment. I can guarantee that one out of two of these calls is down
to poor use of the heater, and not knowing the correct procedure to cool down the equipment.
What usually happens is that the homeowner will turn on the heat to heat the spa; they will heat the water to approximately 104 degrees,
use the spa and turn off the equipment. That is fine if you have an automated system with a newer heater, where they are programmed
to run cooler water through the system before shutting down. However, the problem arises in the older systems, with older heaters.
When you turn off the equipment manually, it turns everything off, the pump and motor and the heater. This means that the water that is
still inside the heater is piping hot, well over the 104 degrees that the water temperature reads, and it is just sitting there inside the heat
exchanger. Through natural gravity, this water gradually flows down out of the heater usually resting at the lowest point on the
equipment. Because it is so hot, it heats up the PVC piping from the inside, remolding it into a different shape. Threaded nipples taper in
and start to leak as soon as the system is turned back on. This problem can be so severe that it can warp backwash valves and even
threaded filter unions.
To solve this problem, the best course of action is to turn off the heater when you have finished using the spa, set the valves in the
normal pool circulation mode and leave the system on for at least 30 minutes longer. This allows cooler water from the pool to circulate
through the system, cooling everything down and protecting your plumbing.
A small device called a ‘fireman’s switch’ was designed to solve this problem automatically. It is installed inside the time clock and
wired to the pressure switch on the heater. When the timer automatically passes the ‘fireman’s switch’, the heater will turn off and the
system will stay on for 20 more minutes, cooling the plumbing. This works great if you use the heater regularly, but if you use it once in
a while, manipulating the controls manually, then it does not do the trick.
PVC piping is so strong and flexible. When it is heated up gradually with a blow torch, it can be shaped into any shape that you wish,
and as soon as it cools down, it naturally will hold that shape. Many pool plumbers use this method to shape pipe into awkward fitting
corners or bends.
39. After my propane tank run dry we had it refilled but my pool heater will not fire. What can I do?
This can cause a problem as the air that was in the empty tank has traveled down the gas line and into the heaters gas valve. All lines
have to be bled and the heater primed, but be sure to leave this to a professional.
40. What do you think about solar?
Solar systems are a way of taking your pool water, heating it up with the sun’s rays and returning the warm water back to your pool.
I think it is a terrific idea and one that works very well. However, there are some drawbacks especially if you live on the coast. In the
inland valleys where sun is mostly year round, solar works very well. But on the coastline where in the cooler months cloud cover moves
in, solar is not as efficient. The way to look at it is this; in general, solar will extend your swimming season by about 6-8 weeks in
California. Obviously solar is much more efficient in the heat of the summer and less efficient when the cool nights start to close in.
41. What causes a time clock to fail?
Apart from a failed time clock motor, very common causes of time clock failure are insects, usually ants. For some reason ants tend to
congregate inside the time clock box and gather on the contacts of the timer. Sometimes they get inside the cogs of the actual timing
motor mechanism, which can ruin the timer. This can be rather expensive and is the most common cause of time clock failure. The
cogs inside the timing device are so small and intricate that a few ants’ bodies can stop it from working forever.
A good way to prevent ants from doing this is to scatter some diazinon granules inside the time clock box and around the pool
equipment. Make sure that you refresh the granules regularly,
42. Which is the best automatic sweep for my pool?
Occasionally customers will ask if it is necessary to have an automatic pool cleaner, especially since they pay monthly for pool service.
Automatic pool sweeps are a great addition to regular weekly cleaning, but they will not do the complete job for you.
Maintaining a pool to be kept healthy and pristine is definitely a full time job, which cannot be accomplished by a pool sweep alone.
However, when choosing a pool sweep you should always take into account a number of factors:
• The kind of debris that usually falls into your pool.
• The type of equipment you currently have on your pool.
• The surrounding area.
• The amount of use your pool gets.
Taking into consideration all of these points will lead you to a pool sweep that will suite your needs. They come in all sizes, colors,
styles and prices. I have been very happy with a Baracuda sweep in my pool for a number of years. It is a suction side sweep that picks
up all different types of debris-mainly dust and small debris-and sends it either into your pump basket, or as in my case, a floating leaf
basket attached to the sweeps hoses (these are a great addition, and save your lines from becoming blocked). There are many
different kinds of suction side sweeps on the market that range in price from $350 - $800 and come with different warranties. One thing
that you have to be aware of is that some manufacturers make different models with the same name but a different model number.
This can misleading, especially when retail stores send out mailers without mentioning model numbers.
Some suction side sweeps are Baracuda, Kreepy Krauly, Arneson Pool Vac, Arneson Naviagator and a Polaris 340. If your pool is
plumbed for an additional sweep pump, then you could probably be in the market for a pressure style sweep such as a Polaris or a
Letro Legend.
One of the least thought about components of our swimming pool system is our pool sweep. Pool chemicals and constant pounding of
the plaster by the sweep wear down the plastic parts. Did you know that there is a maintenance schedule on nearly every pool sweep
on the market? Occasionally it becomes necessary to change bearings and other worn out plastic and rubber parts inside the sweep.
Preventative maintenance will keep your sweep working at its optimum performance, ensuring that you will get the best out of your
automatic sweep system, allowing your pool to remain clean in between our visits.
As part of our service, we will keep a close eye on your pool sweep for you, letting you know if and when anything needs to be done. If
you purchase a pool sweep from us it automatically includes installation.
43. What do I look for when the sweep stops working?
How many times have you walked out to the pool and noticed that your sweep is either malfunctioning or has stopped completely? We
see this many times, but some things to check for are these:
Problem - Sweep only covers the same area of the pool.
1. Try reversing the hoses - the sweep end to the skimmer and the skimmer end to the sweep.
2. Add or subtract hoses.
3. Adjust hose weights.
4. Watch the video or read the instructions for troubleshooting that come with your manual.
Problem - Sweep does not move.
1. Check and empty pump basket.
2. Check head of sweep to make sure that nothing is blocking it.
3. Check hoses to see if any are punctured or are not connected correctly.
4. Backwash or clean filter.
We always check your sweep on our normal weekly call, but these pointers above could be of some help in between our calls. Like
everything, sweeps do wear out and will need replacing at times.
44. Why does my sweep seem to work better in the summer than in the winter?
In warmer water rubber is more flexible than in colder water. The diaphragm of the Baracuda is made from rubber and is constantly
opening and closing in order to pick up debris. A slight increase in suction in the winter usually will solve this problem.
45. How do you know when to acid wash?
Acid washing is an inexpensive route to take in order to improve the cosmetic appearance of your pool.
When a pool is acid washed, the water is drained out of it and the acid/water mixture is very carefully poured over the plaster, where it is
scrubbed into the surface. By doing this, the acid mixture burns a very slight coating of the plaster off, improving the finish and getting
rid of superficial and shallow staining. It is a great way to make your pool look refreshed again.
However, it is crucial to know when not to acid wash a pool. If rebar stains are obvious and if plaster is chipping off around steps and in
corners, this usually signals a red flag. In this instance, it would be better to save the money and apply it to a complete replaster or
resurface of the pool in the future.
46. What is Deck-O-Seal?
There is an expansion joint around the perimeter of your swimming pool in between your coping stones and your pool deck. It is
usually referred to as the Deck-O-Seal joint, named after the sealant product used to fill this gap. The sealant is a two part liquid
compound which seals but remains flexible, allowing for ground movement.
If Deck-o-seal is in poor condition, water can get down behind the pool shell and weaken the concrete joints in between your coping
stones. When the coping stones start to move, your tile line can crack and your tiles can fall off.
The joint has to be cleaned and the old Deck-O-Seal removed. Silica sand is poured down into the open joint, and then liquid Deck-O-
Seal is poured on top of that. We then finish it with a very fine sprinkle of sand, giving it a rough looking texture.
47. How many employees do you have?
None, but we do work closely with two other companies who we trained in the pool business.
In 1983 when we first started our company, I had to go out door to door to solicit new accounts. Today is a different story, as our phone
rings during the summer about 20 times a day, and 5 of those calls are for new service. We obviously do not take on most of these new
account calls for a number of reasons, the main one being that we would be overworked.
A few years ago we took a different approach to our growth, and we decided to take on as many accounts as we could get, hiring the
service personnel to cover the work. We actually got the point of having 7 trucks on the road, two of those being repair trucks. However,
although it looked like we were doing great, our expenses were very high and our customers were not getting what they paid for. I would
spend about 3 hours a week talking to customers about their complaints and the job became very stressful. We constantly had
employee problems and the quality of service was not where we liked it.
So a few years ago, we decided to take a closer look at the way we were structured and tried a different approach. We also were very
selective for who we would work for. We would not take on hardly any pools with cartridge filters, or pools with problems that the
homeowner was not willing to fix.
Unfortunately, the cost of doing business in California has become very expensive. We are required by law to have a contractor’s
license as well as being bonded and insured. The cost of these qualifications alone runs into thousands of dollars annually.
There are many service companies out there who have no qualifications whatsoever. Generally they drive dirty, untidy trucks (usually
with a surf board in the bed). Many are operating illegally, which is why they can charge a little less money each month for service.
We have no intention of becoming the biggest, just the best. The Pool Doctor always tries to stay one step ahead of the rest, offering the
best in service.
48. Why should we have pool service when we don’t use the pool?
Pool service is as important during the winter months as it is in the summer. Wind and rain cause debris to enter the pool more often.
Skimmer and pump baskets fill up faster. Rain and worms play havoc with pool chemistry, and once pool chemistry is out of balance,
damage will appear on your pool surface.
The more obvious answer to this question is that the pool owner will often leave the maintenance for a long period of time, and will find
that problems arise when they try to clean or operate the equipment. By the time they have paid for a service company to come and
solve the problem, they would have been much better off continuing professional maintenance year round. Once the damage is done it
is often irreversible.
All Pool Doctor accounts are year round which keeps the customers on a set price where new customers will pay a higher monthly rate.
49. I recently read that you have to have a contractor’s license to work on pools. Is that so and do you have one?
You bet! I have been a licensed contractor for many years. Not only that, I am also certified by the National Pool and Spa Institute as a
Certified Pool and Spa Operator. We are fully insured.
This brings up a very good point. Whenever you call a service person to do any work on your property, you should always check to see if
they have a valid contractor’s license. You can access the Contractors Licensing Board On-line to check if any complaints have been
logged. You can also check the Better Business Bureau for the same information. We remain as always, complaint free.
50. Is there any difference in your winter service as compared to your summer service?
Not really. But there are certain things to look for especially in pool water chemistry.
We still service all pools even in bad weather, but when it is really pouring down rain, we will empty baskets, net debris and apply the
chemicals. Weekly service is always required.
51. Since you don’t have employees, how do you get to so much work during the summer months?
We at The Pool Doctor only take on as much work as we can comfortably handle. Sometimes during the summer our phone rings 20 or
more times a day with new work. We can be choosy and we obviously are, only taking on the work we wish to do. But once our service
quota is full we don’t take on any more accounts. We are dedicated to the customers who have been with us year-round for many years.
We work 5 days a week doing our job well. The week-end is a time for our family.
52. Since you have been in your industry many years, do you update or continue your education as the industry changes?
Absolutely, when suppliers send us flyers and samples of their product, we do not accept their promises until it has been proven to us.
Many manufacturers within our industry offer training. We like to attend many of these seminars, which helps us to stay competitive.
53. Do you have any information on Swim lessons?
Teach children to swim and supervise them even after they can swim.
Do not rely on inflatable toys and aids as these give us a false sense of security.
Never take your eyes off of your child when they are in or around water.
Keep toys out of the pool when they are not in use - many children fall in when reaching for a toy.
Establish and enforce pool safety rules for swimmers.
Fence in the pool or keep doors locked with child proof locks.
Children should never swim alone, keep rescue equipment near the pool.
Use a cordless phone around the pool - never leave children unattended for any reason.
Never consider your children to be drown proof or water safe even after they can swim.
Never assume someone else is watching your children.
Always check the pool first if your child is missing
Adult supervision is a must, and that adult must be water safe.
Select your child’s lifeguard carefully, preferably one that is certified in CPR, First Aid and Lifeguard Training.
If you are in the process of teaching your child to swim, it may be a good idea to trust the job to an expert. See swimming instruction on
the bottom of our Repairs Page.
